Imagine wandering through 1,700-year-old Roman ruins one minute, then stepping out to a bustling modern waterfront to sip a cold drink by the sea the next—that’s the essence of Split, Croatia. This stunning Dalmatian city is an intraregional transport hub and a popular tourist destination, drawing over a million visitors each year. However, what truly sets Split apart is its beating heart: Diocletian’s Palace, an architectural marvel so seamlessly woven into the city’s fabric that it’s not just a ruin, but a living, breathing neighborhood.
The city’s history is profound, tracing its roots to the Greek colony of Aspálathos in the 3rd or 2nd century BCE. But the narrative of modern Split begins in 305 CE, when the Roman Emperor Diocletian began construction on his opulent, heavily fortified retirement palace on the site of Spalatum. Today, the palace forms the entire Old Town of Split, occupying approximately 30,000 square meters of stone walls, temples, and courtyards.
The Palace: A Living, Breathing Museum
Diocletian’s Palace is considered the most complete remains of a Roman palace anywhere, and the most intact Roman palace in the world. Yet, it’s unlike any other ancient site, as it is the only currently inhabited Roman ruin.
After Diocletian’s death, the palace was eventually settled by Dalmatians fleeing invading Slavs in the 7th century, who repurposed the structure into a town. To this day, approximately 3,000 people live and work within its medieval walls. As you explore, you’ll witness a fascinating juxtaposition: laundry hung between Roman arches, local residents chatting in sun-drenched courtyards, and trendy boutiques carved into ancient walls. This continuous recycling of historic elements transforms the palace into a multi-phase “living museum,” making every turn a step through time.
The city truly feels like an open-air museum where you can explore the tiny backstreets and dead-end alleyways to discover magical, hidden corners. It’s a place where history isn’t behind velvet ropes—it’s the pavement beneath your feet.
Essential Sights Inside the Walls
Walking the compact, labyrinthine streets of Old Town Split is essentially a walking tour through a Roman emperor’s palace.
- The Peristyle: This monumental court was the palace’s central square and formal reception area. It remains the heart of the palace, where you can sit on the steps, lounge on purple cushions from the nearby café, and soak in the distinct, timeless ambiance. Guarding the square is an ancient Egyptian sphinx, over 3,000 years old. For a magical experience, visit at night when the Peristyle is lit up or when live klapa (a capella) singers perform.
- St. Domnius Cathedral and Bell Tower: This structure was originally built as Diocletian’s Mausoleum. After the emperor’s death, it was transformed into a cathedral, making it one of the oldest cathedrals in the world still in use. You can climb the Bell Tower, the tallest structure in Old Town Split, for sweeping views of the terracotta rooftops, the sparkling Adriatic Sea, and Marjan Hill.
- Diocletian’s Cellars (Podrumi): Accessed from the Bronze Gate, this vast network of vaulted hallways directly mirrored the layout of the emperor’s private apartments above. They were once used for storage, and today they give the most authentic sense of the Palace’s original scale. Parts of the cellar complex are famous for serving as Daenerys Targaryen’s throne room and the place where she kept her dragons in captivity during Game of Thrones Season 4.
- The Gates and the Good Luck Toe: The palace is protected by four main gates, each named after a metal. The Golden Gate (Zlatna Vrata) is the grandest entrance on the north side. Just outside stands the imposing, 28-foot-tall statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin, whose big toe you must rub for good luck—it’s a fun, memorable stop that promises good luck for your journey.
The Rise of the Modern City: Where the Stones End
Split’s charm is not confined to its ancient stone walls; the vibrancy spills out into the areas that define its modern identity.
- The Riva Promenade: Known affectionately as the “Living Room of Split,” the Riva is a magnificent pedestrian strip running along the harbor, built directly against the south wall of the palace. This bustling, lively walkway is lined with palm trees, popular cafes, and restaurants. It’s the perfect place to grab a gelato, people-watch, and enjoy life’s simple pleasures in a city made friendly for its residents.
- Marjan Hill: Serving as a quiet green escape, this forest park on the western side of the city offers spectacular viewpoints. You don’t need to hike far; the Vidilica viewpoint provides quick, sweeping panoramas of the terracotta rooftops, the harbor, and the Adriatic islands. It has been in use as a park since the 3rd century and is a cherished symbol of the city.
Day Trips & Coastal Adventures
Split is not only a fantastic destination, but also a perfect base for exploring the diverse beauty of the Dalmatian coast.
- Omiš: Pirate History and Adrenaline. Just a short trip from Split is the striking town of Omiš, dramatically nestled where the Cetina River meets the Adriatic Sea. This historic town was once a notorious pirate stronghold, and today it’s a hub for adventure sports like ziplining, white-water rafting, and hiking to clifftop fortresses. The dramatic setting and history make it a fantastic, high-energy counterpoint to Split’s ancient Roman elegance.
- Island Hopping. From Split’s busy harbor, you can easily hop on a ferry or boat tour to explore nearby islands like Hvar and Brač. Hvar is known for its fancy cafés and lavender shops, while Brač is home to the famous Zlatni Rat beach (often called the Golden Horn). Whether you’re looking for a party vibe or a super chill afternoon, there’s an island adventure waiting.
Final Tips for Your Visit
To fully appreciate Split’s unique blend of history and modernity, plan to spend at least two to three days exploring.
- Footwear is Key: The beautiful limestone and marble streets and cobblestones inside the palace walls can become extremely slick, especially when wet or if you encounter the marble-paved sections. Wear shoes with decent treads.
- Beat the Crowds: Diocletian’s Palace is free to enter as a public space, but the key paid sites (like the Bell Tower and the Cellars) can get busy. Visit popular areas like the Peristyle and the Cathedral early in the morning before the cruise ship crowds arrive, or later in the evening when the city lights make it magical.
Split is a city that invites you to lose yourself in its labyrinthine lanes, discover hidden Roman fragments in everyday walls, and experience history that is truly alive. It is an unforgettable experience—a trip back in time that never leaves the present.
You can view the video this post is based on here: Split, Croatia: Where a Modern City Rises from Roman Ruins
Ex-Techie | Racquet Sports & Travel Blogger | Real-World Experiences