Do you enjoy cycling with mountain views but hate long and strenuous climbs? The Velo Dunajec cycle route in Poland might just be perfect for you! Following the meandering river Dunajec on the border with Slovakia, this trail is ideal for beginners and families, and the stunning landscapes won’t disappoint even the most well-travelled cycle adventurer.
Stretching almost 240 km along the banks of the Dunajec river, Velo Dunajec is one of the most popular routes in the VeloMałoposka network – a network of roads aiming to allow the cycle tourists to reach every part of the Lesser Poland region.
Velo Dunajec is unique for several reasons. It crosses seven mountain ranges (starting from the Tatra Mountains, through the Gorce, Pieniny and Beskidy). Its vast majority lies close to the Dunajec River, which is famous for majestic gorges, steep cliffs and rich wildlife (you can spot grey herons, black herons and many more fascinating birds here).
You’ll also cycle along three great lakes and have a chance to visit several historical castles, wooden churches and cosy old towns.
But what makes the route especially popular is the fact that it’s well-signposted and partially car-free. It’s an example of well-thought-out cycling infrastructure that makes cycle tourism accessible to a wider audience.
Best time to cycle Velo Dunajec
The cycling season on Velo Dunajec stretches from late April to early October. Through May, the temperatures might still be quite chilly, especially in the morning, but the lush greenery waking up to life will compensate you for this inconvenience.
Long and warm summer days are generally best for cycling adventures in Poland (and as the trail follows the Dunajec river, you’ll get a refreshing breeze even on the hottest days). In the afternoon, heavy thunderstorms are a common occurrence, so it’s always better to start biking early.
During the peak season, the Velo Dunajec trail tends to be quite busy. Avoid the summer weekends and major Polish holidays (1-3 May, 15 August and the weekend after the Feast of Corpus Christi).
September is the perfect time to cycle the Velo Dunajec route. You’ll avoid the biggest crowds and can expect a more stable weather, as well as the stunning “Polish golden autumn”.
What bike to choose for Velo Dunajec
The vast majority of the trail goes on paved roads or cycle paths, so you can do it on any bike you choose. There are some hills on the route, but no big climbs, especially if starting in Zakopane and heading north.
How safe is Velo Dunajec for cycling with kids?
The route is not finished yet, so there might be a few places where you’ll have to be extra careful, especially when cycling with kids.
Over half of Velo Dunajec leads through dedicated bicycle paths, separated from traffic. The other half are local and secondary routes, mostly with little car traffic. Particularly, the first half of the route (starting from Zakopane) is quite family-friendly and safe.
Things to do and see along Velo Dunajec (because it’s not just about cycling)
Hiking in the Tatras
Before you head out on your cycling adventure, you should take a day or two to explore the breathtaking trails in the highest mountain range in Poland – the Tatras.
The most popular hike is definitely the one to Morskie Oko – the largest mountain lake in the Tatra Mountains, and it is surrounded by spectacular peaks such as Mnich with its spiky silhouette, Rysy (the highest mountain in Poland) and Mięguszowieckie Szczyty.
The hike is quite easy, but I recommend starting early in the morning to avoid the crowds.
Other popular and rewarding hikes include Czerwone Wierchy, Giewont, Nosal, Rysy and Chochołowska Valley.
Exploring the wooden architecture of Lesser Poland
Lesser Poland’s wooden churches, open-air museums and monuments are quite unique. It’s hard to find another place in Europe where beautiful, meticulously carved wooden buildings are so well-preserved.
Some of the gems worth visiting along the Velo Dunajec are:
- The Jaszczurówka Chapel in Zakopane – designed by Stanisław Witkiewicz and built in 1904-1907. It’s one of the best examples of the Zakopane style.
- St Michael Archangel’s Church in Dębno – a 15th-century wooden church which is part of the UNESCO Wooden Churches of Southern Lesser Poland. It’s one of the best-kept wooden Gothic churches in Europe.
- The open-air museum in Nowy Sącz is full of old cottages, huts and mills. It provides a unique glimpse into the daily life of people living in this region during the 18th and 19th centuries.
Visiting the castles
The Dunajec Castle in Niedzica is probably one of the most picturesque castles in Poland. Nested on a hill on the shore of Lake Czorsztyn, it looks straight out of a fairy tale.
But apart from taking pictures, it’s worth taking your time to explore the castle’s rich history. You can get a guided tour or explore the museum on your own.
And if you want to feel like in a fairy tale, you can even stay a night in one of the chambers!
Rafting on Dunajec
Rafting on traditional wooden rafts down the Dunajec River Gorge is one of the most unique things you can do in the Pieniny Mountains. The highlanders who want to become raftsmen need to undergo a long qualification process before receiving the title of master raftsman (locally known as flisak).
Apparently, it is possible to take your bike on the raft, for an additional fee.
Bike rental on Velo Dunajec
There are a few places where you can rent a bike along Velo Dunajec:
- StartVelo – 70 pln/day for a trekking bike, 100 pln/day for a hardtail mountain bike. Accessories such as panniers and helmets are also available. Locations in Poronin (near Zakopane), Nowy Targ and Harklowa.
- Karnij Się – in Szczawnica. Bikes can be delivered for free within 20 km from Szczawnica. Price: 60 zł/day for hardtail MTB
- Biketrip – trekking, gravel, mountain and road bikes for rent in Zakopane and Kraków.
Getting there
There are multiple daily direct trains from Krakow to Zakopane. Most of them have spaces for bicycles. However, Zakopane is a popular destination, so you should book your ticket early during the high season.
There are also daily direct trains from Warsaw (it takes ca. 5 hours).
Koleo.pl is the best website to plan your train journey in Poland.
In case all the train tickets are sold out (which can happen in the high season), you can try Flixbus. The trip is less comfortable and longer than by train but many buses have bicycle racks.
From Poprad (Slovakia), there is a direct bus to Zakopane run by Koleje Małopolskie. You need to contact the helpline to ask whether you’ll be allowed to bring your bike on board.
The trail officially ends in Wietrzychowice, where the public transport options are quite limited. The nearest train station is located in Tarnów.
Velo Dunajec and connecting to other routes
In Wietrzychowice, Velo Dunajec connects with the Vistula Cycle Route. If you want to continue your ride to Krakow, this trail along the longest river in Poland will be the best way.
In Zakopane, Velo Dunajec connects to the magnificent loop around the Tatra Mountains. This transborder route is one of the most stunning I’ve ever ridden.
Accommodation
There are plenty of hotels, guesthouses and inns along the Velo Dunajec route. On weekends in the peak summer season, it’s worth booking a room beforehand.
There are also plenty of affordable campsites where you can pitch your tent, for example:
Pod Brzozami, Tylmanowa – I paid about 30 zł for one night. There is a kitchen, clean toilets and showers. The camp is located right next to the river, which creates perfect white noise for good sleep.
Nad Zalewem – by the Czorsztyńskie Lake and close to the castle. Price: 20 zł per person + 20 zł for a small tent.
Camping Polana Sosny – 27 zł/person +27 zł/tent