Belén Castelló’s latest bikepacking video series finds her arriving in the Philippines with only a loose plan for her trip. Once on the road, she connects with a new local friend who helps ease her into the journey through the unfamiliar country. Find the 40-minute video with a written introduction and photos here…
Words, photos, and video by Belén Castelló
How I ended up in the Philippines started with a gut feeling I couldn’t quite explain. Last year, during a bikepacking trip in Vietnam, I met a French girl who had just spent a few months there. She spoke about the country with such ease and warmth that it stayed with me long after.
The Philippines wasn’t a place I’d heard much about from other travelling cyclists. With its thousands of scattered islands, I imagined it would be logistically complex—and even more challenging to move through by bike. Still, that curiosity was strong enough to push me to come and see it for myself. The truth is, I did absolutely no research and decided to take a leap.
Arriving in a new country always comes with a certain nervousness for me. It takes a few days to understand the rhythm, the systems, the small details that make the sudden change of lifestyle feel natural again. But this time, I wouldn’t have to figure it out alone. A few days before landing, a message appeared in my inbox: “Hi girl, this is my friend who lives in Baguio, she can join you on your cycling to Sagada or other areas there. Just message her.” So I did.
Once in Manila, I started to sketch out a plan. The country is far bigger than I had imagined, and with limited time, I decided to head north first—toward Baguio City—where I would meet Valerie. We didn’t know much about each other, only that we shared an interest in experiencing places by bike. From the first few minutes together, I could tell we’d be a good match. More than anything, I looked forward to being introduced to the country through her perspective as we rode side by side.
Our plan was simple: keep heading north. Nothing fixed, just a general direction and the intention to find a place to sleep before dark. We spent a few days riding through the Northern Cordillera, slowly climbing into cooler air and quieter roads. My initial hesitation faded as Valerie naturally brought a sense of ease into the ride, helping me settle into the unfamiliar and giving me the confidence to continue on my own afterwards.
From there, I spent more time exploring the mountains of Ifugao—pedalling through lush valleys, small villages, and a landscape shaped by weather as by human hands. Northern Luzon was nothing like the postcards you see when you search “The Philippines” online, which made the experience feel all the more unexpected.
Still, after days of rain, climbs, and mountain air, I found myself ready for a different side of the country. The coastline, the heat, the palms, the sea. The other Philippines I had been imagining from afar.
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