Don't Buy Your Next MTB Wheelset Until You Read This Comparison

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The world of mountain biking is full of opinions, which lead to great debates and calm, unbiased discussions. From wheel size to wheel material, everyone has something to say, but I’ve ridden (and broken) a lot of wheels over the last decade. From high-end carbon to affordable alloy, I’ve seen it all. Because of this, one of the most common questions I get asked is, “Are carbon MTB wheels worth it?” The answer these days is almost always “Yes, but…”

While carbon wheels have come a long way in the last few years, alloy mountain bike wheels are still a valid option. They’re more affordable, not much heavier, and some are even backed by a pretty nice warranty to help with crash replacement. But let’s look at what to consider when you get the itch to spend thousands of dollars on shiny new carbon-fiber wheels.

Comparison at a Glance

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The Case for Alloy

For most riders, high-end alloy wheels (like those from DT Swiss, Stan’s, HUNT, or Hope) hit the sweet spot of price and weight. Some alloy wheels might even be backed by a crash replacement program or some kind of warranty, making them even easier to justify.

• Failure Mode: An alloy rim will dent. You can often pull that dent out with a wrench and keep riding. In a worst-case scenario, you’re out $100-ish for a new rim.
• Compliance: Alloy has a natural “flex” to it. On chatter, this acts as a tiny bit of extra give, reducing fatigue and helping the tire track the ground.
• Budget: You can buy a top-tier alloy wheelset and a season’s worth of tires and lift tickets for the price of one mid-range carbon wheelset, and it likely won’t be that much heavier.

The Case for Carbon

Carbon isn’t just about weight; it’s about stiffness and damping. And modern carbon wheels have become really reliable, making them a marginally better investment in the long run.

• Precision: Carbon wheels deflect less when you’re cornering hard or going through rough stuff. They also hold shape better and rarely need truing.
• The “Pop”: Because they are lighter and stiffer, the bike feels more alive. It’s easier to spin up out of corners and keep things pointed straight.
• Warranty: This is the hidden “worth it” factor. Many premium carbon brands (such as Santa Cruz/Reserve, We Are One, NOBL, and HUNT) offer lifetime warranties. If you plan to keep the bike for 5+ years, that warranty can actually make carbon cheaper in the long run if you cook through wheels.

What To Think About

DT Swiss just dropped the new 1700 series of wheels, with options for a wide range of riders. From lightweight carbon XC options (XRC 1700 Spline), to aluminum wheels for trail bikes (XM 1700 Spline), to a burlier enduro/all mountain spec (EX 1700 Classic), and even a dedicated eMTB set (HX 1700 Spline), there’s something for everyone. All of these new wheels come equipped with the new DT Swiss DEG DF hub in the rear, save for the XRC 1700 XC wheels. This means riders can adjust the rear hub’s deadband to fine-tune its interaction with suspension movement (0°, 10°, or 20° of float).

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While the full line of the new DT Swiss 1700 wheels isn’t alloy, most of them are, and as I’ve been back on the Chris King MTN20 AL wheels for the last few weeks, it got me thinking about all the great alloy MTB wheels I’ve ridden over the last decade. Alloy wheels are reliable and offer a unique ride quality that carbon wheels don’t always provide. Plus, you can bend them back into shape if you happen to fold a lip on a rock and need to limp home.

Alloy wheels are often seen as the inferior option to carbon, but there’s a reason many pros are riding alloy in the UCI DH World Cup and Enduro World Cup. They might be heavier, but they are also a little more flexible, which can make chatter feel smoother. The same can be said for carbon these days, so the actual debate of ride quality gets a little foggy. Carbon stays true longer, doesn’t bend, and is getting harder and harder to break, making it increasingly easier to go with the lighter, stronger, but somewhat more expensive option…

Ride Quality

In terms of which ones ride better, it’s a hard thing to put into terms that most people will understand, and some will claim alloy wheels have a better ride feel, while others will swear that carbon is king. And I’m here to say both those opinions are valid – but they are draped in nuance. Tire inserts, tire casing, and tire pressure will all have a greater impact on ride quality, so the rim material is less of a factor there; it’s the weight that really matters. But then again, tire casings and insets will also have a profound effect on weight.

Neither rides inherently “better” than the other, they’re just different.

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Sure, carbon wheels are lighter, and in recent years, they’ve become impressively durable, with most backed by a lifetime warranty and a crash-replacement program, making them much easier to justify purchasing. There are also some great benefits to reducing rotational weight with lighter wheels, especially if you’re not on a motor-assisted bike, winching you up the hills.

Alloy wheels cost less, and that makes them easier to replace if something does go terribly wrong, but they also don’t weigh that much more than carbon in most MTB applications. Carbon, on the other hand, has become very reliable; it’s lighter and easier to live with if you don’t want to mess with truing and maintenance, and if you value riding more and worrying less, the extra coin might be worth it.

Carbon is the clear winner for most riders. The carbon hoops stay true longer; they don’t develop flat spots and don’t dent. Modern carbon wheels are VERY strong and quite reliable. Fwiw, it’s been a long time since I’ve broken a carbon wheel, but I’ve dented plenty of alloy wheels in that same time period.

So the consideration is mostly down to cost and how judicious you are with spending.

Carbon or Alloy: Which Should You Choose?

I don’t have a super clear answer. But I usually suggest going with carbon if you can afford it. It’s almost always worth the investment. Buy once, cry once, right? Unless you’re someone who goes through multiple wheels in a season, carbon is the right pick. However, it all depends on how and where you ride, but for the most part, new carbon MTB wheels can take a hammering and are typically backed by a pretty decent warranty that protects your investment. These warranties generally signify that a brand stands behind its product and doesn’t plan to replace every wheel it sends to customers.

In summary, if you can afford carbon wheels, buy carbon wheels. If you can’t, most alloy wheels will be perfectly adequate for your needs, just find the right ones.

Our Suggestions for Alloy Wheels

Hunt Trail Wide V2 (~$550)
Stan’s NoTubes Arch MK4 (~$675)
Reserve 30|HD AL (~$799)
Industry Nine Enduro S V2 / Hydra (~$945)
Chris King MTN30 AL (~$1,250)

Our Suggestions for Carbon Wheels

Roval Control Carbon (~$1,450)
ENVE AM30 (~$1,475)
Reynolds Blacklabel 309/289 (~$1,595)
We Are One Sector (~$1,694.98)
Reserve 30|HD / DT 350 (~$1,850)