Until recently, I knew very little about Kosovo. I had travelled through much of the Balkans, cycling across Albania, Montenegro and North Macedonia, wandering the streets of Sarajevo and Ohrid, hiking through national parks. Yet somehow, Kosovo remained a blank space on my map. That changed when I had the chance to hike the Via Dinarica Kosovo, a long-distance trail that winds through the majestic but little-visited Accursed Mountains. It was one of the most unforgettable journeys I’ve taken, with rugged peaks, warm hospitality, and a kind of quiet magic that’s hard to find elsewhere in Europe.
When I received an invitation from the Utalaya Foundation to join a group of regional bloggers, YouTubers and outdoor influencers on a trip to Via Dinarica Kosovo, I was extremely excited, especially when I found out that our guide would be Uta Ibrahimi – the first Balkan woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. Since most of my trips in recent years were focused on cycling, I haven’t done a multi-day hike in years. The prospect of spending a couple of days up in the mountains, surrounded by raw nature and some of the least-visited peaks in Europe, was thrilling. As soon as we arrived at the trailhead, I knew this would be one of the most unforgettable adventures of the summer.
Disclaimer: My trip to Via Dinarica Kosovo was organised and sponsored by the Utalaya Foundation. In this post, I’ll share my honest opinions and experiences and provide some helpful information for planning your hike on Via Dinarica Kosovo.
What is Via Dinarica?
Via Dinarica is a mega-trail (or rather, a network of hiking trails) connecting seven countries in the Western Balkans. Its name comes from the name of the mountain ranges it crosses: the Dinarides or the Dinaric Alps.
The central notion behind this trail was to reconnect the nations after the turbulent fall of Yugoslavia, with a focus on nature rather than politics. Creating a hiking trail also helped develop slow, sustainable tourism, bringing people into remote corners of the Balkan Peninsula and creating jobs for those living in these areas.
Soon, the Via Dinarica gained popularity, with National Geographic even stating that it is “poised to become one of the world’s top trekking destinations”. Yet, it remains an off-the-beaten-track trail, where you can hike for hours without meeting a single person.
First impressions
Having only four days, we couldn’t hike the entire trail, but our guide, Uta Ibrahimi, selected the most remarkable stages of Via Dinarica Kosovo and organised transfers between them. So, instead of starting the hike in the city of Peja, our bus took us to Shtedim shepherd huts, about 2000 metres above sea level.
The drive up itself was pretty exciting, with spectacular views of the Rugova Canyon. Our driver was gripping the wheel tightly, sweating as he tried to maintain momentum on the final, steep and bumpy section of the road.
As we arrived at the trailhead surrounded by endless green pastures, we were welcomed by a fresh breeze – a nice shift from the heavy, stuffy air in Pristina. The walk was pleasant and easy. We followed small shepherd paths that ran on the slopes of the mountain range dividing Kosovo from Montenegro.
It was very quiet – so quiet that when Durim from our group started singing traditional Albanian songs, the mountains replied with an echo. We didn’t meet a living soul (apart from a cow very protective of her calf) until we arrived at our accommodation, the ERA Lodge, where our host, Fatos, warmly welcomed us.
At the ERA lodge
Fatos built the house along with other volunteers involved in the Environmentally Responsible Action (ERA), using wood from already fallen trees and stones transported by oxen. He wanted it to have the least possible impact on the environment. Initially, it was supposed to be a place where ERA organised camps for kids, teaching them about wildlife and nature.
“But we started to see hikers passing every day, asking: ‘Do you have a place to stay? Something to eat? Please, let us in.’ We couldn’t escape it”, laughed Fatos, telling us the story of his beautiful mountain hut on the edge of the Accursed Mountains National Park.
It felt like a peaceful refuge, with wooden stairs and floors that smelled like the forest. Fatos has been fighting for it to stay this way, pushing back on illegal logging in the forests around and on road construction projects in the mountains.
“After the war, there was a lot of destruction in the name of development”, he explained. “Some people don’t understand that opening a road here would destroy the environment. I think we belong with nature, and that’s why I’m so committed to it. I don’t want selfish people coming here with cars or ATVs. People who love nature and respect it come here with heavy backpacks; they don’t mind walking for eight hours.”
Fatos told us a lot about his work, monitoring the wildlife. His main concern was the situation of the Balkan Lynx, a highly endangered species with only 15 individuals counted across the Balkans. Fatos clearly loved nature more than anything in the world.
“That’s a big TV”, I said when I noticed a massive screen on the wall in the living room. It somehow didn’t match the vibe of a tranquil mountain lodge.
“You know, I like peace and nature”, Fatos laughed. “But it can get a bit lonely here, especially in winter. So I like to watch videos from music festivals, it makes me feel a connection with other people.”
Sunrise hike to the Hajla Peak
“Let’s go to bed early tonight. Tomorrow, we are going to see the sunrise on the Hajla Peak”, announced Uta during the evening briefing. “Wake up time: 3:30, we’re leaving at 3:45. We’re not waiting for anyone, if you oversleep, you’ll miss it.”
I wasn’t too fond of this idea. The night before, I was going to bed at 3:30 (after a late flight and drive from Skopje airport to Kosovo), and I was exhausted after just three hours of sleep. But I knew that I would never force myself to wake up that early on my own, so I had to take advantage of this external accountability to see the sunrise in those mountains.
The Hajla Peak (2403 m) is one of the most popular peaks in the Accursed Mountains, and I knew that the views from the top would be unforgettable.
I couldn’t sleep that night, waking up several times convinced that it was time to get up already. When my alarm finally went off, I quickly put my clothes on, grabbed my headlamp and, half-asleep, walked downstairs.
It was surprisingly warm for a night at almost 2000 metres. Everything around us was entirely still: no sound, except for our shoes hitting the ground and our jackets rustling as we moved along the shepherd tracks.
Behind the peaks, the dark-blue sky was gradually turning purple and pink. Karst formations were unravelling in front of our eyes, rocks glistening mysteriously as the first rays of the sun touched them.
As we reached the ridge, the panorama became increasingly spectacular. We could see far into Montenegro and Albania. I stepped carefully, trying not to stumble, distracted by the beauty around me.
On the summit, we immersed ourselves in the spectacle of nature while enjoying a snack and capturing the best photos. There was no trace of tiredness anymore – it was worth having another sleep-deprived night.
At the Bujtina Lojza
After a nutritious breakfast (eggs, local cheese and plenty of fresh vegetables), the only hiking left for the day was the short descent to Pepaj, where two off-road trucks picked us up and transported us to Milishevc.
We drove through dense and verdant beech forests. The car jumped and wobbled over numerous potholes and ruts.
Finally, we arrived at the Bujtina Lojza Guesthouse, in the heart of the Roshkodol mountains. We received a warm welcome from the owner, Zeki, and his fluffy Samoyed, Bora, hungry for scratches and rubs.
Shortly after I put my backpack on the bunk bed in the wooden hut and started to unpack, the dark skies tore up and rain and hail began to rumble on the roof. With the ominous sound of the thunder, we quickly ran to the living room where a few drenched hikers tried to warm up.
Milishevc is a point where Via Dinarica crosses another, more famous, long-distance hiking trail – The Peaks of the Balkans. I was pretty surprised how international the crowd in this little cabin in the middle of the Kosovar mountains was: some Americans, Germans, a Dutchman, an Aussie girl. All of them were hiking the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
At dinner, the German couple shared that parts of that trail were getting pretty crowded.
“I think we saw almost a thousand hikers on the stretch between Theth and Valbona in Albania”, they told me when I asked about their trek.
Until recently, the Peaks of the Balkans were an “off-the-beaten-path adventure”, but now the route was slowly becoming a popular tourist product. At the same time, most of Via Dinarica was still empty and untouched. I was wondering why that was.
“I think most people simply don’t know about it”, said Uta when I asked her about it. “In my opinion, Via Dinarica is a much better trail. On the Peaks of the Balkans, you climb up and down a lot. Also, some stages of the route in Kosovo are now paved with asphalt. On Via Dinarica, once you’ve made your way up, you stay at a pretty high altitude. It’s much less exhausting and you’re out in nature all the time, instead of walking on asphalt.”
In the evening, we sat around a fireplace. The WiFi was down because of the rain. The guesthouse got its electricity from the solar panels, so without sunlight, the power was limited, and the router had to be shut down. But it was relaxing to sit together with other hikers, without being interrupted by notifications from our phones.
Guided by a dog
It was pretty chilly when I woke up. After breakfast, Zeki and one other driver gave us a lift to Dobredol. Yesterday’s storm turned the road into a patchwork of giant puddles and potholes. Zeki confidently slalomed between them, holding a cigarette in one hand and changing music with the other.
It was Balkan music, of course. The others in the car sang along and discussed something in Albanian. Suddenly, Zeke boosted the volume, stopped the car, and everyone jumped out.
I was not sure what was happening until I saw people forming a circle. They started dancing, so I joined. I guess that’s what happens when you go for an adventure with Balkan people!
After a few more kilometres, we arrived in Dobredol and started hiking. A shepherd dog decided to join us. He took his role seriously: whenever one of us left the path to take a picture, he ran after, making sure that the group stuck together.
Endless green pastures
The omnipresent greenery enchanted me. The pastures around had a fascinating texture, looking like it was made of suede. With thick, dark clouds, the scenery had a gloomy aura. We felt like a group of hobbits approaching Mordor.
We wandered in a trance, listening to the bells of cows grazing near the trail and the gentle blow of the wind flowing through the holes of karst rocks. Although we were more than 2000 metres above sea level, nature was still vibrant: a dense carpet of yellow primulas covered the hills, and now and then, a beautiful blue gentiana popped up, proudly withstanding all the challenges of growing at high altitude.
Suddenly, a young man on a horse came from the opposite direction. With a cigarette in his mouth and jeans on his legs, he nonchalantly rode through this idyllic landscape, as if the beauty around him was the most obvious thing in the world.
After a gentle descent, we reached the Gacafari Guesthouse, which not only had incredible views but also comfortable, freshly renovated rooms. We spent the evening playing cards and petting two dogs who came there all the way from Albania, following a couple of Canadian hikers.
Through the land of lakes
The sun’s rays and the chirping of birds woke me up. I couldn’t remember the last time I slept so well – the mountain air definitely served me. If only I could wake up with views like those every morning, I thought when brushing my teeth and looking out the little window.
So far, all breakfasts have been great on this trip, but Gacaferi Guest House set a whole different standard: there were eggs, pancakes, freshly baked bread, homemade butter, sausages, juicy watermelon – it was hard to decide what to choose!
We needed the energy, though, as we had 18 kilometres ahead of us. Today, we were supposed to hike the highest peak of Kosovo – the mighty Gjeravica Peak (2,656 m).
After a gentle climb, breathing in the aroma of pine trees, we reached the first of many lakes that day: Tropojë Lake, with emerald waters glistening in the sun. Soon, the landscape turned more high-alpine – the summits were more rugged, and in some crevasses, there was still snow.
We crossed some snow patches and stopped by another lake, Zemra, also called the heart-shaped lake. The views were stunning and, despite it being a sunny Sunday, we had the trail mostly to ourselves. In every other place in Europe, with views like that, on a trail to the highest peak, there would be plenty of hikers. But not in Kosovo!
We only met a small group of tourists from Croatia by Lake Gjeravica. Part of our group took a dip in the ice-cold waters of this tiny mountain lake. I only dared to dip my feet. I could spend the entire day lying on the grass in the sun and looking at the surrounding mountains – but we had to hurry back to the valley, back to the scorching heat, back to everyday life.
It was hard to believe that we only spent four days in the mountains. The landscapes changed so many times during this short period. I met so many kind people who shared so many stories. It felt like a whole summer of adventure. I guess that’s the magic of slow travel. So if you need a break from everyday hustle and a hike that helps you reset your brain and reconnect with nature, hiking the Via Dinarica might be a perfect way to do that!
Via Dinarica Kosovo – facts and figures
The Via Dinarica Kosovo consists of 13 stages, and the total length is 143 km. It makes it a perfect hike for a two-week vacation.
Compared to other popular trails, such as the Peaks of the Balkans, Via Dinarica Kosovo has less elevation gain. Once you reach a certain altitude, you stay relatively high in the mountains without descending to the valley and then climbing back up. This makes hiking so much more enjoyable.
By no means does it mean that it’s going to be flat and easy! On some stages, you’ll ascend more than 1200 metres up. But most inclines are gentle, and the terrain rarely gets rough, so every reasonably fit hiker should be able to enjoy the Via Dinarica Kosovo.
Hiking Via Dinarica Kosovo – practical info
Transportation
One of the reasons many people miss out on hikes like Via Dinarica Kosovo is that they think it’s far and complicated to get to the trailheads. But what if I told you that you can get to the start and end of the hike by public transport?
The most convenient way to get to Kosovo is to fly to Prishtina. Other airports in the region include Skopje (North Macedonia) and Tirana (Albania). From either, you can easily reach Kosovo by bus.
The Via Dinarica Kosovo starts in Peja, the country’s fourth largest city. There are two daily trains from Pristina to Peja, and the journey takes approximately two hours. The tickets cost about 3 euros. If you want to get there faster, consider taking a bus – the journey takes approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes, with several departures available every day.
There are also direct buses from Tirana to Peja.
Depending on the trail you choose, you’ll finish your hike either in Decani or Junik. There are, unfortunately, no public buses from Junik, so you’ll need to take a taxi to Gjakova or Peja and continue your journey from there. If you finish your hike in Decani, you can take a direct bus to Pristina (the journey takes two hours).
For such a stunning, wild trail, it’s pretty unique that you can reach Via Dinarica Kosovo so easily by public transport.
Hiking Via Dinarica Kosovo with a guide
The trail is well-marked, and good maps are available in both paper and digital versions. Still, having a guide can make your hike safer, easier and more insightful. You can learn more about nature and wildlife in the Accursed Mountains, as well as about the culture of Kosovo. Opting for a guided tour also saves you the hassle of planning, booking and worrying about the logistics.
I can 100% recommend Uta Ibrahimi from Butterfly Outdoor Adventure, who knows everything about the mountains. She is also a great inspiration for girls and women in Kosovo who want to start exploring the mountains.
Another experienced female mountain guide is Drenica Zogaj, whom I also met during our trip. Both Uta and Drenica are part of the Kosovo Mountain Rescue Team, so you can rest assured that you’ll be safe in their hands.
You can find a list of certified tour operators for Via Dinarica Kosovo here.
Accommodation
During your Via Dinarica hike, you’ll experience the authentic Balkan hospitality. Along the route, you can find mountain huts and guesthouses (the options for accommodation are a bit limited in the first stages after Peja, but this should improve in the following years).
The guesthouses offer a whole different kind of luxury – you won’t find fancy king-sized beds or a spa, but you will be surrounded by pristine nature, stunning landscapes and the kindest people. And the food – it was some of the best dinners and breakfast I’ve had!
You can expect fresh, local products, organic vegetables, traditional cheeses and huge portions. If you’re vegetarian, just let the hosts know beforehand – even though the Balkan cuisine is traditionally meat-heavy, I was always served great and nutritious vegetarian food.
You can find a list of guesthouses along Via Dinarica Kosovo here.
Wild camping on Via Dinarica Kosovo
Many people decide to bring their tent for a hike in the Dinarica Alps. Be mindful that a large part of the Via Dinarica Kosovo trail crosses the Accursed Mountains National Park. Out of respect for nature and wildlife, it’s not allowed to wild camp on the territory of the National Park.
Outside of its borders, you can pitch your tent. But be aware of bears – their numbers have been consistently growing in this region. That’s why it’s good to ask locals before you choose a place to camp and take the usual precautions for camping in bear territory (store your food and other smelly things far from your tent, avoid cooking close to your tent, etc.).
Things to do in Kosovo after/before hiking the Via Dinarica Kosovo
While Via Dinarica alone is a great reason to visit Kosovo, there are plenty of things to do and see before or after you head to the mountains.
The city of Peja is home to some of the most important landmarks in the country, such as the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery from the 13th century. You should also drop by the Old Bazaar to get some souvenirs and have a cup of Turkish coffee.
In Decani, you’ll find another Orthodox monastery, Visoki Decani, that is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
If you’re looking for more adventures, you should try the Via Ferratas in the Rugova Mountains.