By Gail Newbold — “Hog the road!” a fellow cyclist advised us. A Grand Teton National Park ranger told her she could continue riding all the way to String Lake in a designated bike lane alongside Jenny Lake Road beyond where the official paved Grand Teton Pathway ended.
The problem was the bike lane was only one-way. The return trip would require riding on the narrow road with cars. Hence, the recommended hogging. We decided to worry about that later. In the moment, we were simply excited to discover we didn’t have to stop riding at Jenny Lake like we thought.
Our ride had begun just six miles earlier at the Windy Point Turnout shortly past the Moose entrance to the park, so we were still full of energy. We wound our way through a gorgeous fall-colored forest before parking our bikes on the shores of String Lake.
Breaking the Rules
After eating snacks and soaking in the beauty, we were ready to head back. We conferred. Being a hog requires a certain level of cycling aggression, experience and confidence, we decided. We were three women with varying degrees of those attributes. I possess none of them. Knowing other cyclists would hate us for our decision, we nonetheless cycled the wrong direction on the one-way bike lane. Twice we met riders coming toward us and yelled our apologies before ducking out of their path. One couple laughed, another looked (rightfully) annoyed.
Fortunately for us and other cyclists that day, we eventually re-entered the Grand Teton Pathway system designed for two-way traffic. The 56 miles of trail connect the town of Jackson to GTNP and Teton Village and are nicely paved except for one annoying two-mile stretch of narrow dirt road between Teton Village and the Moose entrance.
Pedaling Beneath the Peaks
There’s a lot to love about this trail system, but the most compelling draw is probably the incredibly close view of the jagged Teton Mountain Range on the six-mile section between the Windy Point Turnout and Jenny Lake. Other cyclists mention wildlife sightings of moose, bald eagles, bears and elk. We didn’t see any. It’s primarily a flat trail, if that’s a plus in your book, and very scenic.
After our misadventure on Jenny Lake Road, we headed back the way we came, passing the Windy Point Turnout and exiting the park at the Moose entry station. Surprisingly, cyclists must pay $20 per person for a seven-day pass. Since we entered via car with an annual park pass, we stopped to make sure we could get back in without paying. We could.
On a Dark Highway
Just past the entry station, brilliant yellow trees lined the road to the Snake River Bridge and picturesque views of the river. Our destination was Mormon Row and the iconic T.A. Moulton Barn set against the dramatic backdrop of the Tetons. Again, we found ourselves road biking, this time on US Hwy 191 for two to four miles after the bike trail ended. True to its reputation as one of the most photographed spots in the area, the barn drew several shutterbugs perched behind tripods waiting for the sun to set.
By then it was almost dark and we dreaded biking on the highway. We checked whose head and tail lamps shone brightest, then arranged ourselves in a line hoping for best visibility to passing cars. Back at our car, we loaded our bikes in the near-dark and congratulated ourselves on riding 30 miles that day and staying alive.
Next time I bike the Jackson trails, I’d like to experience the ride from Jackson to Wilson, then along Moose-Wilson Road past Teton Village to where the dirt road begins, and then turn around. It would be approximately 26 miles round trip.
Hiking a Half-marathon and One Last Ride
On day two of our three-day trip, we opted to hike the equivalent of a half-marathon starting our day on the Taggart Lake Trail and ending on the Jenny Lake Trail where we hiked past Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point into Cascade Canyon, and then back alongside the lake.
Day three, we squeezed in one last 15-mile RT ride on a cool, overcast morning on the Victor to Driggs Rail Trail before driving home. Reviews posted on the Trail Link App were mostly negative, but it felt like a no-brainer to cycle it since our Airbnb in Victor was very near the trailhead. We were surprised at how much we enjoyed it. We loved the rural feel, colorful mountains in the distance, and incredible canopy of yellow trees at the end of the trail.
If you go:
- Trail map for the Grand Teton Pathway:
- When to go: Fall is an exceptionally nice time to visit because of the colorful foliage, but also the cooler temperatures, since much of the trail is exposed. For the same reasons, it’s also a beautiful time to hike on the park’s many trails. Just don’t imagine it will be less crowded. Even on the third weekend in September, the trailhead parking lots seemed every bit as crowded as in the summer. Another bonus to fall is the colorful drive getting to Jackson. The brilliant foliage enroute from Salt Lake City via Lava Hot Springs to the park nearly made the trip worthwhile on its own.
- Where to stay: Jackson lodging is notoriously expensive so I like to stay in the cute town of Victor, Idaho. The downside is it’s about a 45- to 60-minute drive to and from the park, which feels long at the end of a day of biking or hiking. Console yourself in the morning with a huckleberry milkshake from the eclectic Victor Emporium.
- Don’t miss Mama Mimi, Thomas Danbo’s massive troll sculpture at Rendezvous Park in Wilson built in 2021. Danbo is a Danish artist and recycling activist who uses recycled and renewable materials sourced locally. Mama Mimi is the 80th addition to the larger family of trolls located all over the United States and the world. Ideally, arrive before dark so you don’t find yourself, as we did, wandering the woods with phone flashlights.
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