We catch up with Naomi, head of Skedaddle Italia and pictured below, to learn more about our very first cycling holiday in Italy, which is just as popular today as it was 25 years ago! Here is the story behind the Sardinia Coast to Coast Mountain Bike Holiday.
What makes Sardinia such a great mountain biking destination?
Sardinia is still very unspoilt by development, so you’ll find an abundance of forested areas and uninhabited regions. Up until the 1960’s Sardinia was mainly an agri-pastoral region and people lived off the land. Some areas were exploited for minerals too and there are areas in Sardinia where mining and forestry thrived. The countryside and mountains became connected with a network of natural ways used by miners, farmers, woodcutters and shepherds. These activities are less important to the economy today, but the ancient trials and routes remain and have since been adopted by mountain bikers and walkers alike! Thanks also to some keen MTB trail developers, some of these trails and routes that became closed from lack of use, have been re-discovered and are perfect for the mountain bike. So, to summarise, it’s a great mountain biking destination because the routes are authentic and tell the story of Sardinia’s past.
Tell us a little bit about how you came up with the Sardinia coast to coast mountain bike route?
Way back in 2001 I was approached by a company that organises biking charity challenges for fundraising. They were looking for a challenging ride and a coast to coast of Sardinia by mountain bike appealed to them. The original version I developed was a lot more difficult and adventurous than the version we have now, which we have adapted to suit to a broader mix of riders.
After coming up with the idea of a coast to coast, I started studying paper maps and exploring. In those days, there was no Google Earth, only topographical military maps of Sardinia, which dated back to 1980’s. Alone, with my mountain bike and my maps, I would slowly peace bits together until I came up with a route. There were many days on the bike which did not reveal the trail I was hoping for; maps that showed a route that was then either closed or did not exist anymore. Scouting for new routes before GPS and Google Earth was a true adventure and exploration! The additional challenge was also finding accommodation in the interior of Sardinia, as back in early 2000 it was less developed for tourism. Staying at farm stays, known as Agriturismo offered a more authentic experience and we still work with most of them, 20 years on!
What is your favourite biking highlight on this trip?
I love the higher regions of Sardinia and so I would say that riding through the “tacchi” of Ulassai, on day 6 is probably my highlight. It’s an authentic part of Sardinia that is now known as part of the “blue zone” (one of six areas in the world where you’ll find the highest concentration of centenarians). Riding through a true wilderness, with a mix of opens vistas (including the pinnacle of Perda Liana), dense oak forests, some single tracks, and maybe spotting some birds of prey, is where I feel free. I also think that it is here where a lot of our customers really appreciate the full immersion in nature, finding the flow of their holiday.
What is your favourite off-the-bike highlight?
Sitting round the table for dinner with the group at the Agriturismo Ticci in Seulo. I have been coming here for 24 years. First it was run by Mr Ghiani, and his daughter Manuela helped him. Now Manuela runs it by herself and Mr Ghiani, now in his 80’s, looks after the farm. The food prepared on the table comes from their own farm, and as a family they make sausages, ham and pickles, homemade pasta and even the wine! This family lives and works in the so called “blue zone” and its heart-warming to know that Skedaddle have been able to share this with customers for the last 20 odd years.
You’ll find incredible food everywhere you go in Sardinia. The Skedaddle picnics are a highlight too!
The holiday has been running for almost 25 years, have you needed to make any changes over the years?
Indeed. As mentioned, it started as a lot more challenging trip. The route was meant to push people to their limits at the same time as showcasing some of the most remote and amazing regions of Sardinia. The last day of riding used to take us into the wilderness area of the Supramonte of Baunei, a difficult ride that then finished on the famous remote beach of Cala Sisine. The only way out of here was by boat! For a number of reasons – unpredictability of the weather, difficulty of the terrain, health and safety (!) – we changed the route to still incorporate a grand finale ride to the east coast. Over the years some of the country roads have been tarmacked so we’ve had to evolve the route and find alternative routes. Now the trip ends in Bari Sardo along the coast. We think the latest iteration is the perfect balance between being an achievable challenge for most mountain bikers (grade 3-4), yet still maintaining a sense of adventure, great scenery and rides. Today you can choose to join a guided group tour or you can go on a self-guided adventure with your friends.
What kind of riders would enjoy this holiday?
People who like riding on wide a variety of terrains – doubletrack, singletrack, mule tracks, forest trails and dirt roads. If you’re looking to explore a region of Italy that is very different to the rest of the country, Sardinia has a very unique culture and cuisine. This holiday would appeal to riders with a sense of adventure – someone who is looking for an achievable challenge. It’s perfect if you’re looking to escape to the countryside and be immersed in nature. Every day the riding brings new landscapes, flowers to admire, different plants, different terrains. At the end of each day you’ll enjoy genuine home cooked food, rich red and white wines and a cold refreshing Ichnusa beer.
Any tips on what to pack?
In addition to our recommended kit list I’d definitely recommend a camel back water bladder for your backpack to make sure have at least 2 lt capacity of water daily. Being the mediterranean, depending on the time of year, mosquito repellent is useful in the evenings especially if eating outside.