Cycling The Philippines: Changing Plans (Ep.2)

Words, photos, and video by Belén Castelló

After a couple of weeks spent cycling through the mountains of Northern Luzon, I found myself craving the paradisiacal version of the Philippines we’re always sold. Curious for a change of scenery, I boarded a 10-hour overnight bus south from the mountains and woke up in Cavite, just outside Manila, where a wave of warm air hit me as I strapped my panniers back onto the bike. From there, I followed the shores of Taal Lake, rode through quiet fishing villages along the Calumpang Peninsula, and slowly made my way toward the Philippine Sea.

​No one had particularly recommended this region to me, and I arrived with very few expectations. But more often than not, it’s those in-between places—the ones that rarely make it into guidebooks or itineraries—that end up leaving the deepest impression. Over the following days, I pedalled through small villages, learning about the fish farms, the work that goes into maintaining them, and the way entire communities live from the sea.

​The further south I travelled, the more open people seemed to become. This part of the country sees far fewer foreigners, and curiosity often turned into conversation. Because almost everyone spoke English, even brief encounters lingered longer than usual and began slowly shaping how I experienced the Philippines.

Though my time riding through this area was incredibly memorable, there were difficult moments too: relentless heat, strong headwinds, and restless nights trying to protect both myself and the tent from curious doggies determined to jump on top of it. And it was after one of those rough days—exhausted, low on motivation, and feeling like nothing was quite clicking—that I impulsively boarded a jeepney and then a ferry to Mindoro Island in search of a change of scenery.

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​Mindoro looked much closer to the tropical Philippines I’d imagined before arriving: long beaches lined with coconut palms, bright blue water, and sleepy coastal roads. I spent my days riding along the shoreline, stopping often to swim and cool off in the sea. It almost felt like entering an entirely different country, and probably closer to what cycling through much of the rest of the Philippines might feel like. But just as I was beginning to settle into that slower, holiday-like rhythm, another idea quietly started forming in the back of my mind.

​Have you ever felt drawn towards something—a place, an activity, a completely different experience—that you somehow never quite get around to trying? Suddenly, it clicked. I realised I was in the perfect place to finally give that thing that had been sitting in the back of my mind for years a try. It’s not often I experience such a sudden change of heart, but this time, it felt right.

​So, I cut the bikepacking route short for a week, returned to Manila, booked a spontaneous flight, and traded my panniers for a backpack, knowing I’d be spending a lot more time in the water than on the bike. A few hours later, I arrived in Siargao, ready to learn how to surf. Watch the full story in the video above.

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