Escape Everything: Bikepacking Finland on the Kona Unity

Photos by Caleb Smith, video by Joonas Vinnari

When you really want to get away from it all—and still have just enough infrastructure to support your escape—timing is everything. For us, that meant heading north to Finnish Lapland. By late September, the autumn foliage had mostly disappeared, and the hikers along with it. When we arrived at Muotka Wilderness Lodge in Saariselkä, the air was crisp and carried the first hint of winter. If the skies stayed clear, we might even ride under the Northern Lights.

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The ski resort of Saariselkä and neighbouring Urho Kekkonen National Park sit a few hundred kilometres north of the Arctic Circle, close to the Russian border. The park is known for its rolling fell landscapes, old-growth forests, wild rivers, and an extensive network of huts and trails—many of them rideable.

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This was a shoulder season trip. We weren’t chasing distance or speed, but slowing down to take in the surroundings and share the experience with friends from far away. For us Finns, the remoteness, open access to wilderness, and proximity to the Russian border feel familiar. For our guests from the US and New Zealand, it was something far more exotic.

Day 1: Muotka Wilderness Lodge to Suomunruoktu Hut

After more than 30 hours of travel for Caleb—and two bikes gone missing along the way—the adventure began. It felt fitting. It wouldn’t be much of an adventure if you knew the outcome from the start.

After a night at Muotka, countless calls with the airline, and a lunch stop at Kiilopää, we were finally ready. The bikes arrived, we packed for four days, and rolled out. Luckily, the first stage was short: just 16 kilometres to Suomunruoktu Wilderness Hut.

The route mixed doubletrack and singletrack. Smooth and sandy at first, then increasingly rocky after the first major climb. I was riding a Kona Unity, a fully rigid mountain bike built for backcountry travel. With wide tires and plenty of mounting points, carrying gear wasn’t an issue. Weight, however, was. Still, the ride felt surprisingly playful. Riding with Tuukka—half my age and a skilled gravity rider—we found ourselves chasing each other at speeds not usually associated with loaded bikes.

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With a late start and some filming along the way, darkness fell before we reached the hut. After one final river crossing, we arrived under fading light. In Finnish national parks, you’ll find both free open wilderness huts and reservable ones. All are simple, but they offer a stove, firewood, and a toilet. Everything you need.

Day 2: Suomunruoktu to Taajoslaavu

The second day started wet and windy. Yesterday’s rocky descent became a grinding climb into a strong headwind. In the open fells, you really feel the force of nature. Thankfully, the gearing was forgiving, and the weather gradually improved.

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In Finland, trail access is rarely an issue. Under Everyone’s Right, you can freely roam, ride, and camp temporarily on both public and private land, as long as you respect nature and others. National parks are more regulated, and not all trails are open to bikes. That meant some out-and-back riding, but access is far from restrictive. In fact, several sections on this route featured purpose-built, flowy singletrack winding through the fells.

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During winter, the park even has a vast network of maintained winter trails. Check out our trip to the same area a few winters back. The highlight of day 2 was the six-kilometre stretch from Rautulampi to Luulampi. Many consider it to be one of Finland’s best wilderness bike trails. Flowing, twisting, and perfectly grippy, it invited speed. We took the invitation, without disturbing wildlife or leaving a trace.

Later, after another river crossing, we stopped for coffee and pastries at Luulampi. The cellular network was spotty, and card payments didn’t work. No problem: the hut warden simply wrote down bank details and trusted us to pay later.

We camped at Taajoslaavu, a simple lean-to shelter with a fire pit. After 28 kilometres, we cooked dinner under a clear sky. And that meant one thing: Northern Lights. We grabbed our bikes and rode out again, lights on, climbing towards Kiilopää. The night was freezing, the wind biting. At the higher slopes, we lay down, searching for shelter.

Then it began. Faint green light in the northern sky, slowly growing, shifting, intensifying. More colour, more movement. An unforgettable show, just for us.

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Day 3: Taajoslaavu to Tolosjoki

After a good night’s sleep in our tents, we enjoyed breakfast by the fire, packed our bikes, and continued on. More singletrack, more mud, more rocks balanced by moments of speed and wide-open views. By lunchtime, we reached the village of Saariselkä. Not a quiet settlement, but a fully equipped holiday resort. You can restock supplies, fix your bike, and sit down for a proper meal.

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Despite looking slightly out of place after a few days in the wild, we were warmly welcomed and rewarded ourselves with excellent pizza and a well-earned beer at Pizzeria Fieno. After lunch, we crossed Highway E75, which runs the length of Finland from Helsinki in the south all the way to the Arctic Ocean in Norway. Helsinki lies about 1,100 kilometres away; the Arctic Ocean another 280 kilometres north. For those arriving by train, the nearest station is in Rovaniemi, followed by a three-hour bus ride. There’s also an airport in Ivalo, just 30 minutes from Saariselkä.

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We ended the day by the Tolos River after around 25 kilometres of riding. This would be our first proper river crossing, but we saved that experience for the morning.

Day 4: Tolosjoki to Muotka

The Tolos River isn’t deep, but it flows fast. The rocky bottom and cold water demand attention. If you don’t carry your bike high enough, the current will catch your wheels. The crossing woke us up quickly, but not for long. Soon, a flowing singletrack began climbing first gradually, then steeply. Legs burning and breath heavy, we reached Kulmakuru, a narrow gorge bending sharply through the landscape. It felt like the perfect place for the first coffee stop of the day.

From there, the trail dropped toward another crossing of the Tolos River. This section felt raw and less travelled—true wilderness riding. The descent was one of the best of the trip: fast, technical, and deeply satisfying. Outside the national park boundaries, the trail was less worn, and we saw fewer people. A perfect combination.

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Once again, we found ourselves riding faster than our loaded bikes probably deserved. Somehow, nothing broke, nothing fell off, and no one punctured. A heavily loaded bike takes a beating on terrain like this, but the Kona Unity exceeded expectations: reliable, capable, and, above all, fun.

After crossing the highway once more, we began the final stretch back toward Muotka. The last day covered around 25 kilometres, bringing our total distance (excluding our Northern Lights detour) to just under 100 kilometres. That distance could easily be ridden in a day or two. But that wasn’t the point. We escaped the crowds, extended the season, and experienced Lapland at its quietest. A bike, after all, is a powerful way to connect with nature and with friends from far away.

The Route

Further Reading

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