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Updated June 2026
If you’ve been searching for a comfortable saddle, or worried about bike seat pain, this is 2nd in a 3-part series on how to truly find the right bike saddle for you. You might want to catch our first article that details some reasons you might be experiencing discomfort with the model you currently have. Done that? Still hurts? K. Cool. More tips!
FIGURE OUT WHAT SADDLE FEATURES YOU HATE
When it comes to saddles, it’s important to remember we’re all different. What works for 140 random people on the cycling subreddit who have all suggested a specific brand does not mean that saddle will work for you. So, first, it’s important to take stock of what you don’t like. Take a ride around on your current saddle, and note the areas you’re feeling the most pain. This will help you to narrow down your search for the perfect seat. Let’s start by going through a series of questions:
- Where is the pressure?
- Do you feel like you’re in serious pain, or is it just discomfort?
- Have you been getting saddle sores? If so, where?
- Are you feeling pain or badly chafing your thighs?
Assuming you’ve done all the things suggested in our first article, The Truth About Finding a Comfortable Saddle, you can get plenty of information for your next purchase just based on what you hate about your current saddle.
WHAT DOES THE PAIN MEAN?
Disclaimer: If you’re experiencing pain that may be tied to injury or a sign of any health issues, you should definitely see a doctor. I’m no doctor, and I don’t even own a stethoscope. See your doctor to ensure that you don’t have anything more serious going on than just a saddle fit issue. These ideas should never replace the advice of a licensed health professional, which I am certainly not.
Front Saddle Pain:
This is generally (not always) caused by a tilted saddle, but it can also be caused by the length and width of the saddle’s nose. If you adjust the tilt slightly down, you may notice the pain go away–though overcorrecting it may cause other issues like pressure on your hands. Some friends of the magazine over at Bike Fit Advisor have a great video on saddle tilt that you should also check out if you’re having pain in your hands (it’s a bit of an older video, but the advice is still quite good).
Another option is to a find seat with a nose that hooks downward or a shorter saddle all together. If you’re finding your thighs chafing against the sides of the saddle’s nose, it’s likely too wide. Think narrower.
Mid-Saddle Pain:
Pain in the soft tissue areas? You probably need a channel or a cutout to help alleviate the pressure. If you feel mild discomfort when you’re riding, a channel will likely help that without giving up all forms of support.
If you’re past the point of discomfort, a full cut-out is probably the way to go. This sometimes has a lot to do with how aggressive your position on the bike is, which may also answer the question between needing a full cutout or just a channel; more aggressive generally means more cutout.
To complicate the issue, some riders find that pushing their saddle very slightly off-center to the right or left helps to alleviate mid-saddle pain by helping to better support soft tissue.
Rear Saddle Pain:
If you’ve got the right shorts, remembered to stand up on your bike every few miles, and have put in plenty of rides to toughen up your backside, rear saddle pain might be caused by a few things. First off, you’ll want to make sure that the width of the seat is right for you by measuring your “sit-bones.”
These are those bony bumps that make the deepest depression in your sofa cushions, and, strangely, that’s how they’re often measured. Not on your couch, but on an industry recognized “butt-o-meter” that you sit on and it offers you your size in millimeters.
FIND YOUR SIT BONE MEASUREMENT
You can actually do this yourself. I give credit to one of my riding buddies, Steve, for this idea, and it’s seriously brilliant.
Basically, you sit on a piece of thick, corrugated cardboard. Put your feet up on an ottoman or something to give yourself a good imprint. Next, get up and grab a piece of chalk and rub it across the place where you sat. You’ll just need to measure the distance between the two impressions evident in the chalk and add about 30 mm to that number. Boom, you’ve got your sit bone distance. Use this to choose a saddle width.
The correct width should also keep of your base of your thigh from becoming irritated, but if you find that you’re still having issues there, consider a flex-wing type of saddle that moves a little as you pedal. Finally, you might also look for a channel that runs all the way through the back of the saddle, or one with a notched cutout at the rear.
Get The Right Saddle for You
OK, you’ve eliminated shapes and features that don’t work for you. You’ve got your list of what will likely work. So what next? Buy a pretty one that’s on sale? Maybe. I’ve put together a list of saddles that are generally comfortable for most people, and knowing your measurements and numbers will go a long way toward finding a saddle that works for you. You might also check with your LBS to see if they have a test saddle program. Often, for a small deposit, they’ll let you try out a bike seat for a week or two. If you don’t like that one, swap it to test another one until you find your favorite. You might also check out Bike Fit Box’s saddle demo box that lets you try three saddles to get a better idea of fit–though I find this option a bit on the expensive side.
Either way, check out some of my favorite saddle choices to hopefully help you find one that fits your style and budget. Oh, and, hey, don’t forget to let us know what you hate or love about your saddle. Comment below or send us a message!